How to frame art prints (and make a £20 print look like £200)

I'm going to tell you the single biggest secret in art: the frame does half the work. A £20 print in a good frame with a mount looks like it came from a Mayfair gallery. The same print stuck to the wall with tape looks like a student flat. (Nothing wrong with student flats. I wrote a whole post on art for student flats.)

Here's how to frame prints properly, without spending a fortune.

The parts of a frame, in plain English

• Frame: the outside edge. Wood, metal or plastic.
• Glazing: the clear front. Glass or acrylic.
• Mount: the card border between print and frame. Also called a mat.
• Backing board: holds everything in place at the back.

The mount is the bit people skip, and it's the bit that makes framing look expensive.

What size frame for an A4 or A3 print?

Ready-made frames often come with a mount already cut for a standard print size. Check the mount aperture (the window in the middle). It should be slightly smaller than the print so it overlaps the edges by a few millimetres.

My A4 prints have the artwork at about A5 with a white border on A4 paper, so they look great in an A4 frame without a mount, or in a bigger frame with a mount cut to show the border.

Glass or acrylic?

• Glass: clearer, harder to scratch, heavier, breaks if dropped.
• Acrylic (perspex): lighter, shatterproof, better for kids' rooms, big frames and posting. Scratches more easily, so clean it with a soft cloth.
• UV-protective glazing: worth it for originals or anything near a sunny window.
• Anti-reflective glazing: pricier, but brilliant opposite windows.

For bathrooms and kitchens, always frame behind glazing. Steam and splashes are not kind to paper.

Choosing a frame colour

• Black: makes bright colours pop. My go-to for pop art.
• White: fresh, gallery-like, lovely on coloured walls.
• Natural oak: warm, works in almost every home.
• Gold or brass: a bit glam, perfect for fashion prints and the champagne series.
• Neon: bold, which is why my big originals go in neon acrylic frames.

Don't stress about matching every frame. A gallery wall can mix frames as long as the art has something in common.

DIY or a professional framer?

DIY with ready-made frames is fine for prints. It's cheap and quick, and the high street is full of decent frames with mounts included.

A professional framer is worth it for originals, odd sizes, anything valuable or sentimental, and box frames for pieces with torn edges. They'll use acid-free materials and fix it properly.

How to frame a print at home, step by step

1. Wash your hands. Fingerprints on prints are forever.
2. Clean both sides of the glazing and let it dry.
3. Lay the frame face down on a towel.
4. Put in the glazing, then the mount, then the print face down.
5. Line it up by flipping it over and checking before you close it.
6. Add the backing board and close the clips.
7. Check for dust. There will be dust. There is always dust. Repeat step 4.

Never glue or tape a print to the mount with household tape. If you need to fix it, use acid-free hinging tape at the top only, so the paper can move.

Should originals be framed differently?

Yes. Originals on paper deserve acid-free mounts, UV glazing and a frame that doesn't press the glazing against the paint. My originals are painted on antique book pages, some with raw torn edges, and they look beautiful "floated" in a box frame so you can see the edges. Read more in antique book page art.

Where to hang a framed print

Centre at about 145 to 150cm from the floor, 15 to 25cm above furniture. More in what size art print for a living room and, for renters, how to hang art without damaging walls.

Framing questions